Les Fonts d’Algar

The Algar Springs SWIMMING IN ICE-COLD WATER

A voyage of discovery to Les Fonts d’Algar, an oasis of tranquillity far away from the hustle and bustle of the Costa Blanca. That is what the brochure says, but it is anything but quiet at the waterfalls. Especially in the summer months, when entire families seek a way to cool off.

Imagine: cascading, ice-cold water thundering down for metres. Like a refreshing, fine, icy mist, it lands on your face and mixes with the warm sunbeams on your skin. Around you, the majestic limestone cliffs rise vertically, rugged and grey, marked by time.

Here, at the foot of Les Fonts d’Algar, we feel the world around us changing. Just a few kilometres away, the bustling summer crowds of the Costa Blanca reign during the high season. Here, too, no serene calm hangs over the valley. But it is a place that fascinates.

As soon as the sun’s rays break through the dense canopy, you feel the magic of the water cascading down from various springs. The water flashes and sparkles like thousands of diamonds. This is one of the most beautiful places in Spain. Certainly, it is cultivated and geared towards countless visitors, but it has also retained the natural beauty you would expect.

This is a symphony of emerald green and flowing water that stimulates all your senses. Take the time to engrave this unique experience in your memory and immerse yourself in the wonders of nature. Even if you don’t plunge into the cold water. Les Fonts de l’Algar is not just a destination; it is a memory that will stay with you forever.

Heartbeat of the karst mountains

We were here two years ago as well. Back then, we had to put in quite a bit of effort just to find a parking spot. We walked up in a line. There was hardly a place to catch our breath. People were sitting and lying everywhere, or towels marked reserved spots.

It is much quieter now, but certainly not deserted. On a rock, in the shade at the foot of the waterfalls, we find a moment for philosophical reflection.

This liquid paradise does not spring forth by chance; it breathes the history of the earth. Deeply hidden in the belly of the Sierra de Bèrnia karst mountains lies the origin of the Algar. The word itself carries a mystical secret: it derives from the Arabic gar, which literally means ‘the cave’.

What we hear roaring here is filtered liquid gold for the region. Rainwater and meltwater have carved their way for months through an invisible labyrinth of underground limestone channels to break free from the rocks here with overwhelming, brute force.

This is an ecological masterpiece. The spring acts as a natural water purification system. For centuries, this was the lifeblood of the surrounding agriculture, and we can still feel that as we drive through the green valley later on.

The water of the Fonts d’Algar nourishes the sweet, velvety medlars (loquats) for which the nearby valley of Callosa d’en Sarrià is known. It is therefore no surprise that the Valencian government has declared this area a protected natural area (Zona Húmeda).

Between the roaring waterfalls, the foaming rapids, and the mirror-smooth, deep natural pools, as lovingly mentioned tolls by the locals, a unique microclimate prevails. The scent of damp earth, wild mint, and flowering Mediterranean oleanders hangs heavy and intoxicating in the air here.

The water smells like a fresh glacier. We hear how the limestone seems to sing softly under the constant pressure of the current.

Memory surfaces

As we climb the wooden walkways and steep stairs, somewhat breathless, our thoughts involuntarily drift back to about two years ago. It was the height of summer when we stood here for the first time. That memory is still vivid and comes back to us clearly, a stark contrast to the relative calm of today.

During the height of summer, this valley transforms into a vibrant, almost overstimulated melting pot of life. Along the narrow, rocky paths move a colourful procession of families, Spaniards, and tourists in brightly colored swimwear, along with cheering children splashing into the water from the rocks.

Towels in all the colours of the rainbow claim every millimetre of a flat stone. In summer, the roar of the waterfall must compete with a wall of sound: laughter, screams, splashing, and plunging from hundreds of bathers fleeing the scorching Spanish heat.

Then it is an infectious, vital chaos, but on such days, the spiritual connection with the primal force of nature sometimes gets buried under the crowd. Back then, we had to slalom through the bodies to catch a glimpse of the great waterfall. Due to the months-long drought, it had been reduced to an unimpressive, almost modest trickle compared to the thundering force of today.

Today, everything is different. The dynamics have been reversed, and Les Fonts d’Algar reveal their true, pure form. Only a handful of hikers share the valley with us. The only sound that remains is the deep, rhythmic, and almost hypnotic murmur of the water, subtly accompanied by the clear whistling of birds high in the canopy of the trees on the surrounding slopes.

On the way up, we occasionally stand at a viewpoint for minutes at a time. Now, no selfie sticks, no hordes of people getting in the way when we want to take a photo. Just us, nature, and the fresh, pure mountain air filling our lungs with pure energy. Nature still seems to be catching its breath and preparing for a new hectic summer season.

Halfway to our trek to the start of the waterfalls, we spot a man and woman who undoubtedly consider themselves part of the world of influencers. She, contorting herself somewhat provocatively in all sorts of ways for the camera; he, tattooed from head to toe, flexing his muscles. This will undoubtedly turn into a video that goes viral. They want to draw their followers’ attention more to themselves than to the impressive surroundings.

Shall we leap?

For many visitors, a trip to the Algar waterfalls is only truly complete when they take the plunge into the cold water. Although the temperature is constant all year round — fluctuating around 17 to 18°C — it is too great a challenge for many. Watching the splashing of the diehards is enough for many.

We, too, know our limitations. At the edge of one of the pools, we sit on a rock with our feet in the clear water. Fish dart away in fright; we cool off a little in a fitting manner.

The water is so transparent that we can count the smooth, worn pebbles on the bottom. Today, we are leaving the dive to the real die-hards. But believe us, just looking at this bubbling, splashing, lively, swirling turquoise water has a positive psychological effect. We feel reborn and intensely refreshed.