And an exciting medical adventure
Our journey along the Moroccan Atlantic coast will be a series of extremes. What should have been a relaxing ride from Oualidia to Mohammedia quickly turns into a nerve-wracking slalom between deep pits and an unpleasant confrontation in a remote village.
Go with us on a stage full of contrasts. We meet a fisherman who braves the house-high swell in nothing more than an inflated truck tyre, tasting fresh vegetables straight from a donkey wagon and preparing for an exciting medical adventure in the hustle and bustle of Kenitra.
This travelogue explores the richness of camper life, delves into the ocean’s darker side and highlights the invaluable assistance of a welcoming receptionist.
In Oualidia, the morning begins with a golden-yellow sunrise. There is a sizeable stage waiting. Our goal is Mohammedia, a city about 180 kilometres further north. In Europe, it would take you two hours, but in Morocco – and especially along the coastal road – time is a stretchy concept.
Soon, we notice that the coastal road (the R301 towards El Jadida) is definitely not a route to make quick kilometres. On some sections, the asphalt is more reminiscent of a hole cheese than a provincial road. Sometimes we drive less than on foot, winding to avoid the deep pits that could destroy the chassis of our motorhome.
Still, this slow pace has an advantage: you can see everything. We pass villages where poverty meets us, which makes us realise again and again how rich we are that we can and may travel through this beautiful country in a luxury motorhome.
After a collision with a group of aggressive young people in a village inland, we decided to seek out the safety and comfort of the toll road (A1). As soon as we left the industry of Jorf Lasfar and the hustle and bustle of Casablanca behind us, the motorhome was back relaxed on the asphalt.
Flower city Mohammedia
We are settling down at Camping Ocean Blue in Mohammedia. This city, known as Fedala until 1960, is known as the ‘flower city’. Although the port is now dominated by the oil industry, there is a pleasant tranquillity in the residential areas.
At the reception of the campsite we meet an extremely friendly lady who speaks excellent English. She is a valuable help to us, because after our adventure in Safi and the doctor’s warnings in Oualidia about the danger of rabies, we don’t want to take any risk.
The receptionist explains where to go in the following city: la Division d’Hygiène et Santé – Service d’Hygiène (Centre Antirabique). With this information in our pocket, we feel a lot more at ease.
After a walk along the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean, we are surprised by the local greengrocer with his donkey wagon. For only ten dirhams, we buy fresh vegetables directly from the country.
With warm bread from the reception, we make our own variant of the kebab sandwich we tasted in Moulay Idriss. A flavourful end to an eventful day.
Townships and oranges
Learned from our experiences with the holes in the coastal road, we largely chose the toll road for the route to Mehdia Plage. As soon as we leave the highway for the last twenty kilometres to the coast, the scenery changes immediately.
Initially, we drive through villages that involuntarily remind us of the townships in South Africa. Huts, sometimes covered with corrugated iron and wood, are surrounded by mountains of garbage, with colourful laundry here and there that bravely flutters on the line.
Among the clutter, the fertility of the country shines: the road is flanked by countless stalls with bright orange oranges and other fresh fruit.
The last part to the campsite is a breath of fresh air. We drive through a hilly nature reserve that borders the Lac de Sidi Boughaba. This reserve is a bird-spotting paradise and even seems to be home to rare swamp turtles.
Dancing on the ‘Swell’
Once installed at Camping Mehdia Plage we walk to the beach. The pier crosses far into the sea here and offers a perfect vantage point. There is a hefty swell between the harbour heads. With open mouths and full of admiration, we look at the slender fishing boats.
The skippers skilfully manoeuvre their vessels through the house-high waves; sometimes they lie almost still for minutes, plodding against the current, waiting for the right moment to brave the forces of the ocean.
Memories of our sailing trips with the NOMAS come back. Even then, after a long journey, we often had to strifle to reach a port safely. Sometimes this was the most difficult and not infrequently the most dangerous part of the whole adventure.
A remarkable sight is a lone fisherman navigating an inflated inner tube in a truck. Without a motor, he relies solely on fins and muscle power to pedal through the surf to turn off his nets. This extraordinary display of survival is a testament to human endurance.
Unfortunately, the vigorous sea also has a downside. Mehdia beach, which is known as one of the most beautiful in Morocco, is currently there as a garbage dump.
Recent storms have pushed the ocean to the quay, with the wind blowing the sand across the boulevard. The tide line is now marked by a sad amount of plastic waste.
Next stop: Kenitra
Before we continue our journey, we have a mission. We must locate the medical centre in Kenitra for the next vaccination.
Thanks to Mohammedia’s info, we know we need to find the Division d’Hygiène. So, imagine us with the big motorhome, navigating through the bustling city traffic, trying to find a vaccination centre… You can find out what happens next in our next blog.
DIVISION D’HYGIÈNE ET SANTÉ – CENTRE ANTIRABIQUE
Do you need medical help and a rabies jab? If you are in a big city like Kenitra, try looking for the Division d’Hygiène et Santé – Centre Antirabique. The people at the campsites nearby might know the exact place.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
- Camping Ocean Blue in Mohammedia. Walking distance from the sea. Excellent wifi. Spacious places. Warm showers. Price: 85 dirhams.
- Camping Mehdia Plage. Near a nature reserve. Large pool (cold). Wifi not available (‘broken’ according to the manager). Lots of plastic on the beach. Price: 120 dirhams.
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