Fish. Salt. Seagulls screaming above the quay. The moment we step out of the taxi, Essaouira makes an unforgettable impression. Yet the harbour is only the beginning. Slowly, Essaouira reveals its secrets. Chaos, then calm. First the sharp smell of fish, then the taste of mint tea. With the blue boats, amlou and argan oil in the souk, and a taxi driver eager to tell you about his city, it’s easy to see why people often stay longer than they planned.


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