Don’t stop using your camera
With the scent of warm bread in the camper, we pull onto the road for a drive of about 75 kilometres. Our destination is Chefchaouen, one of Morocco’s most iconic spots, but the route requires absolute concentration.
Soon, we drive through the foothills of the rugged Rif Mountains towards Chefchaouen. The landscape is breathtaking, but the traces of nature’s power are visible everywhere. Heavy rainfall last February took its toll; in several places, the road surface is simply washed away. Although the road is generally passable, we must watch out for unexpected potholes and crumbling sections.
Plastic in the trees
Hour after hour, we follow the course of the river. Currently, the water level is much lower than a few months ago, but the devastation shows that a drama was unfolding here. Along the banks, we see how high and fiercely the water churns through. It is clear that nature suffers greatly; shreds of plastic hang in the trees everywhere as sombre reminders of the floods.
The hills also bear scars, though of a different kind. In some places, we see charred trees, the remains of a devastating fire that affects large parts of this forested area.
Yet, something positive stands out. It feels as if we are driving through a completely different part of Morocco. There is significantly less litter along the road, and the villages we pass through make a tidy, almost European impression. The transition to the north is clearly underway.
Camping Azilah, a base camp with a view
During the day, we reach Camping Azilah in Chefchaouen, over a hundred metres above the town. While we set up the camper, we look out over the blue roofs in the distance and the silhouettes of mountains. Curious as we are, we want to head down immediately. We want to observe and experience every detail of our final stop in Morocco.
Of course, we can take a taxi for a few euros, but after a day in the camper cab, we need some exercise. We get plenty of it. As we make the challenging descent towards the old centre, we say to each other several times, “You know what this means?” Yes, we do. Every step we take down now, we have to climb back up later. But that is a worry for another time.
Chefchaouen, the history of the blue city
The moment we enter the medina, we understand why this city is world-famous. Chefchaouen is a picture. Our iPhones work overtime, not to make calls, but to capture every corner of this photogenic city. Every street, alleyway or staircase deserves to be recorded.
The history of Chefchaouen, founded in 1471 by Moulay Ali Ben Moussa Ben Rached El Alami, is as colourful as its walls. Originally, it was a fortress (kasbah) to protect the region against Portuguese invasions. But why is everything blue? We wonder.
Various stories circulate. Some say that Jewish refugees who settled here in the 1930s painted the city blue because it is the colour of the sky and God. Others mutely claim that the blue keeps mosquitoes at bay. Whatever the reason, the effect is enchanting and results in beautiful images.
The game of haggling in Chefchaouen
We wander endlessly through the medina. We pass numerous shops and restaurants where the atmosphere is remarkably relaxed. The merchants are friendly and less pushy than in the larger cities. “Come, have a look, pas cher,” echoes regularly. Lads wave menus enthusiastically to lure us to their terraces, emphasising the low prices.
When we politely decline, the atmosphere remains pleasant. “Where are you from? Oh, Holland. I have a friend in Amsterdam.” It is a classic, but it always brings a smile.
At one of the shops, a beautiful rug catches our eye. Ankie, by now a seasoned pro at Moroccan haggling, enters the fray. The seller opens with 250 dirham. After a strategic game, she manages to lower the price to 150 dirham (about 14 pounds). Although Ankie is satisfied, the seller suddenly seems to lose his cheerfulness. This is surely a sign that she makes a good deal.
Shadow side of the medina
Later, we experience a comical moment with a biscuit seller. For a bag of home-baked biscuits, we have to pay 50 dirhams. We find it quite expensive. “But they are made by my wife,” the seller explains. That makes them extra dear, naturally. By mistake, Ankie gives him only 5 dirham, about 40 pence. The seller and his neighbour burst into laughter at this ‘optimistic’ payment.
A small misunderstanding that we quickly resolved. After handing over the correct amount, the man walks away with a broad grin. No doubt he tells his wife that he does excellent business with those tourists today.
During our walk, we run into a Dutch couple. They are on a tour of hotels, but their enthusiasm is hard to find. Because many riads lie in the heart of a historical centre, they are inaccessible by car. The man and woman constantly struggle with the safety of their parked car.
The quality of the accommodation also disappoints. The hard beds in particular take their toll. It makes us realise again how luxurious we have it with our camper, always a stone’s throw from the most beautiful locations.
Fickle climate of the Rif
In the course of the afternoon, the weather changes suddenly. The sun disappears, and with it, the spectacular view over the green mountains surrounding Chefchaouen. The climb back to the campsite is tough, and by the time we reach the top, we are literally with our heads in the clouds.
The evening brings an unexpected turn. A thunderstorm begins, and rain truly pours from the heavens. The temperature drops so quickly that we have to turn on the heater in the camper to stay warm.
It is a sharp contrast to the warm afternoon. This clearly shows how fickle the climate in the Moroccan mountains can be. We decide not to make it too late. Tomorrow, a new mission awaits: finding a health centre for our third jab.
To the Sahara next year
After the storm last night, the clouds linger in the valley. Occasionally, some rain still falls, but we descend again and take a long walk through Chefchaouen. After asking at the local health centre if we can indeed go there for the next jab, we settle down in one of the many restaurants.
While the tagines are placed on the table, we review our journey once more. In every respect, it is an adventure. It starts with the crossing, the arrival in Tanger Med, and the first overnight stay in Asilah. Actually, every day is an experience. Something special happens every time. We constantly find ourselves in awe.
This journey must have a sequel; we both agree. Towards the Sahara next year? Yes. And again with a camper van. For us, this is the ideal way to travel through Morocco. Nice and compact, yet with all the comforts at hand.
The next morning, we park the camper in the centre of Chefchaouen, near the local rabies vaccination centre. Once the third jab is administered, we depart for Tanger Med. There we can board immediately, and by the end of the day, we are back in Algeciras. With this, the adventure comes to an end, but no one can take away the memories of a remarkable journey.
Practical information
Are you planning to visit Chefchaouen with a camper? Here are some facts and tips:
- Camping Azilah, This campsite offers an impressive view over the city. Electricity and Wi-Fi are included in the price.
- Facilities: For a warm shower, you pay 10 dirham to the warden. You then receive a key, which you must return afterwards. Do not forget to lock the door properly.
- Location: The campsite sits on a hill; the walk to the medina takes about 15 to 20 minutes (downhill); the way back is steep. A taxi (petit taxi) usually costs between 10 and 20 dirham.
- The best time to travel is spring (March-May), which is ideal due to the green nature, although the weather in the Rif Mountains, as we notice, can be unpredictable.
- Chefchaouen captures our hearts with its blue walls and relaxed atmosphere. Despite the climbs and the rain, it is an absolute must-see for anyone travelling through Morocco.
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