Returning to Esch-sur-Sûre

First night in the trailer tent

After thorough preparation, we head south with the trailer tent and two new bicycles. Our first stop is Esch-sur-Sûre, a place we last visited nearly half a century ago. We wonder what it is like now and how we will fare during our first night in the camper.

It must be quite a sight, a packed trailer tent with shiny mint-green bikes on the special carrier on the drawbar. We feel as if we are embarking on a proper expedition as we join the motorway. Now it really begins.

A route of over two thousand kilometres lies ahead of us. It is not a fast journey, as we strictly observe the speed limit. With the Camp-let behind the car, we drive at about 90 kilometres per hour. We cannot go any faster anyway because it is busy, something we are no longer used to in Spain. For us, towing a small trailer is a completely new experience.

Esch-sur-Sûre, back in time

Our goal for today is Esch-sur-Sûre in Luxembourg. We were last here more than forty years ago. As we drive slowly with the flow of traffic, we wonder if we will still recognise it. What has changed in all those decades? Has the magic of this hidden gem in the Ardennes been preserved, or has time transformed the village beyond recognition?

In the course of the afternoon, we reach Camping Im Aal. At first glance, it takes a moment to process; the campsite is hardly recognisable. Where there used to be open fields, there are now many static caravans and chalets occupying permanent pitches. At the end of the campsite, we find a spot almost on the river, within walking distance of the village. The babbling Sûre provides a soothing background noise, exactly what we need after a day in heavy traffic.

A damaged jockey wheel

Setting up the trailer tent proves to be a greater challenge than expected. On the way through Bastogne, we encounter a few nasty speed bumps. Although we drive carefully, the jockey wheel of the trailer tent is damaged. Apparently, it was not properly secured and has taken a few hits.

For a moment, we fear the coupling is strained, as we cannot get the trailer off the towbar. It seems as if the car is rising with it when we try to uncouple. This is actually logical, as the trailer tent is heavier than when we collected it from the specialist in Boxtel. That weight presses the car down. When we wind up the jockey wheel, the car naturally rises too.

Eventually, with some patience and strength, we manage to release the trailer tent. Step one of the obstacle course is complete. Fortunately, the assembly goes smoothly, although we make a classic camping mistake. Naturally, you should lay the groundsheet before the tent is up. We do it the other way around, which makes it much harder to get everything taut. After an hour, everything is standing and in place. It is time for a well-deserved refreshment while we look out over the water.

Here time stands still

Esch-sur-Sûre is a place with a rich history. The village is strategically located in a sharp bend of the river Sûre and is dominated by the imposing ruins of a tenth-century castle. This was once the seat of the Lords of Esch, who ruled over the surrounding valleys.

The narrow streets and whitewashed houses that seem glued to the rock face give the village an almost fairytale appearance. It remains one of the smallest and most picturesque municipalities in Luxembourg.

When the sun goes down, the temperature drops rapidly. During the day the weather is beautiful, but as soon as it gets dark, the cold penetrates the tent canvas. It is our first night in the trailer tent and we are curious how it will suit us. Fortunately, we have a thick duvet. Despite the cold night, we sleep wonderfully and wake up refreshed for our exploration of the village.

Walking along the river

We walk to the centre via a path along the river. High above us, the castle ruins tower. For a moment, we consider climbing up for the view, but quickly abandon that idea. From a distance, the castle is also beautiful, we find. Instead, we decide to walk to the other side of the village. In our memory, there used to be a campsite there, right behind the large dam.

Great is the disappointment when we discover that the campsite no longer exists. A sturdy fence closes off the path to the dam. Indeed, a lot can change in 45 years. The dam itself, built in the 1950s to provide drinking water and generate electricity, remains an impressive feat of engineering, but the accessibility of yesteryear has vanished.

Cash only, really?

Before returning to the campsite, we settle on the terrace of Smaach ëm de Séi a mei for a simple lunch. The location is perfect with a view of the river. However, we leave without eating a bite, because the lady behind the bar informs us that we can only pay in cash. “Then you can pay in the hotel.” If we want to pay by card, we have to go to a hotel further away, where they also charge an extra three per cent for debit and credit cards.

Since we do not have enough cash with us and there is no ATM to be found in the entire village, we are baffled. Is this Luxembourg in 2026? It feels almost medieval. Therefore, we take the car and drive to a nearby village where three supermarkets sit side by side. There we can fortunately pay by card. We also take the opportunity to fill the tank. Fuel is still a lot cheaper here than in the Netherlands.

Next stage, Langres

We spend the rest of the afternoon truly on holiday. It is late April and the thermometer hits 20 degrees. The sun is high in a clear blue sky. With a view of the surrounding mountains, we have a quiet moment at the trailer tent and recharge the battery for the next stage.

Tomorrow, Langres, a 400-kilometre drive, is on the agenda. That is also a familiar place for us. This time there is no walk along the city walls. Instead, we want to look for a special spot that was only discovered a few decades ago. You can read all about it in our next blog.